Nestled in the rolling hills of Tuscany lies Vinci, a quaint Italian town that goes all out to celebrate its most famous son. We braved the twisting mountain roads and were rewarded with a fabulous day filled with stunning scenery and well-curated museums. Venturing to Vinci promises not just a journey through picturesque landscapes but also a captivating dive into his life, which brought us even more admiration for his achievements. From his humble beginnings in this small Tuscan town, Leonardo da Vinci's early life serves as a testament to the power of imagination, ingenuity, and perseverance.
Top Travel Tips for VINCI (click to reveal)
Poor access by public transport - you'll probably need to drive (the views are beautiful)
Shops are shut on Sunday - all museums (and a couple of cafes) are open
First stop: The Info Centre on the main street to buy tickets: you can get a better deal if you buy them altogether.
You can see the whole town and museums in a day
The 'birthplace of Leonardo' is a 40-min uphill walk. It's more for adults than kids.
The Tuscan Countryside: A Painter's Palette
Embarking on the journey to Vinci, one cannot help but be captivated by the breathtaking beauty of the Tuscan countryside. Vineyards stretch as far as the eye can see, punctuated by rustic farmhouses and lines of tall cypress trees. Although we visited out of the usual tourist season, we were gifted with brilliant blue skies which gave a distant hazy glow in the winter sunlight.
Public transport to Vinci is not very convenient, so we chose to drive from our base in the nearby town of Pistoia. We found the roads quite narrow at times, and were grateful for the quiet Sunday traffic and our skinny little Suzuki, “Betty”. We were also surprised by a sudden detour which was not recognised by Google Maps. It added half an hour to our journey, but in the end we felt lucky for the diversion - it gave us views from the mountains surrounding both sides of Vinci. The landscape itself seems like a painting, a natural masterpiece just waiting to be immortalised on canvas by a genius of its own production.
Check out our video Leonardo’s Vinci on YouTube to share in the tales.
Leonardo's humble beginnings:
Leonardo da Vinci, the epitome of Renaissance brilliance, was born on 15 April 1452, in Anchiano, a short horse ride from the tiny town of Vinci. Born out of wedlock to a wealthy notary and an orphaned peasant woman, he was officially named "Leonardo di ser Piero da Vinci", meaning "Leonardo, (son) of (Mes)ser Piero from Vinci". He spent his early years nestled within the picturesque landscapes of his grandfather's farmhouse, and this connection to nature was to be heavily influential on his future work.
Today, the town of Vinci celebrates Leo’s early life at the Casa Natale di Leonardo (Birthplace of Leonardo) - the farm-house where he was “probably” born. The museum itself holds very few artefacts, but is still worth a visit for anyone interested in experiencing the landscape that influenced the young genius. Getting there is slightly tricky however. If you have transport then it is a fairly quick drive through the twisting roads, but if you are walking you’ll need stamina. While only a 40 minute walk according to Google Maps, it is almost all uphill.
The museum’s well-produced (if somewhat slow-moving) video presentation, shown in both Italian and English, offers insight into his life which provides context for the town’s other museums dedicated to his artworks and inventions. But what we enjoyed the most was the views. From the olive-tree lined hilltop there is an almost 360 degree view of the Tuscan countryside, into the province of Florence. It was easy to imagine the natural beauty and awe that inspired Leonardo’s enormous sense of curiosity.
His insatiable hunger for knowledge led him to explore the forests and streams that surrounded Vinci, where he found inspiration in the intricate patterns of leaves, the graceful flight of birds, and the gentle play of light and shadow. From an early age, Leo displayed an extraordinary talent for drawing and painting, often sketching the world around him with meticulous detail and precision. His innate artistic abilities caught the attention of Andrea del Verrocchio, a prominent Florentine artist, who took Leonardo under his wing as an apprentice. Under Verrocchio's guidance, Leo honed his skills as a painter, sculptor, and architect, laying the groundwork for his future masterpieces and groundbreaking innovations.
Leonardo's thirst for knowledge and relentless pursuit of excellence quickly found him patronage among Florence’s elite. By all historical accounts he grew to become a man with great personal appeal, kindness, and generosity, who was well loved by his contemporaries. But while his professional life seemed charmed, his family life was less straightforward. His mother left him early in his childhood, and his father remarried several times, having many more children. When Piero da Vinci died he left nothing to his illegitimate son, but by this time the fiercely independent Leonardo had forged a career of his own.
Leonardo was a private man in regards to his personal life, and revealed little about his sexuality. Although he left hundreds of pages of writing, there are no letters, poetry or diary entries that indicate any romantic interest. He never married and there is no evidence that he had an intimate relationship with any person, male or female. The only historical document relating to his sexual life is an accusation of sodomy made in 1476. Although the charges against him were dismissed, the traumatic experience of being publicly accused of what was considered at the time to be an act of ‘pure wickedness’ may have led him to lead a life of celibacy. He once wrote "Intellectual passion drives out sensuality. ... Whoso curbs not lustful desires puts himself on a level with the beasts." Instead, his passion and love for his fellow man can be seen in his beautifully emotional, yet painstakingly faithful painted renditions of human life.
Leonardo's Paintings: Windows to the Soul
Leonardo da Vinci's paintings are renowned for their unparalleled mastery of technique and profound psychological depth. The Mona Lisa, arguably the most famous portrait in the world, continues to captivate audiences with her enigmatic smile. His other masterpieces, such as The Last Supper and Vitruvian Man, showcase his unparalleled skill and timeless appeal.
Of course none of these are actually located in the little town of Vinci. The Mona Lisa is safely housed behind bulletproof glass within the Louvre Museum and draws thousands of jostling spectators each day. Cenacolo (The Last Supper) is located in Milano, in the refectory of the Dominican convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie, and is one of UNESCO's World Heritage sites. The original of The Vitruvian Man is displayed only occasionally, in the Gallerie dell'Accademia in Venice, Italy.
So while you won't see any originals, the Leonardo e la pittura offers the next best thing. They have lovingly curated 21 copies of Leonardo's works, all of which would never normally be seen together. Their reproductions are created life-size in extreme high definition using an innovative technology which not only reproduces the colour rendering but also uses 3D printing to recreate the original brushstrokes. According to their website, this makes their pieces “identical to the original masterpieces, perfect copies in every way”.
We found the gallery extremely enjoyable, and wished we had dedicated more time to it. Not only could we get close to the paintings and view them without the usual crowds, the curation was also very informative, with each piece explained in Italian and English. We didn’t need to download the free app, because on our sleepy Sunday afternoon we were the galleries only visitors - which meant the chatty, affable attendant gave us much of his time and shared entertaining stories of the artist and his works.
We learned more about the loss of Leonardo’s mother, who is supposed to represented in many of his works. We also saw reproductions of the two versions of Vergine delle rocce (Virgin of the Rocks). The earlier version, which currently hangs in the Louvre in Paris, hangs side by side with the London version - giving a unique opportunity to see the distinctive differences between the two. While it doesn’t match exactly with the Wikipedia entry, the explanation we heard at the museum about the two versions was definitely interesting. The attendant explained that the first version was actually a reject - sent back by the client who commissioned it, with only 30% payment. After intervention to sort out the contractual disagreements and price disputes, Leonardo supposedly agreed to repaint it, but he left the majority of the second version to his assistants who produced a more customer-friendly product.
A Journey Through Leonardo's Genius
But it was lucky for us that he did hand over that particular work to others. Unfortunately, Leonardo's interests were so broad, and he was so often compelled by new subjects, that he left dozens of other paintings and projects unfinished. He spent most of his time studying science, either by going out into nature and observing things or by locking himself away in his workshop cutting up bodies or pondering universal truths. From anatomy to astronomy, engineering to geology, Leonardo's notebooks brimmed with meticulous observations, bold hypotheses, and ingenious inventions.
And this is where the town of Vinci has also excelled: the two buildings that make up the Museo Leonardiano are meticulously curated with models, videos and interactive exhibits that give a fascinating look at both his inventions and his scientific discoveries.
In the first building we found a loving tribute to Leonardo’s fascination with the workings of the human body. In his quest to unravel these mysteries of Leo embarked on detailed anatomical studies, meticulously dissecting cadavers to uncover the intricacies the held. His sketches, characterised by their astonishing precision and accuracy, laid the groundwork for modern medical science, offering invaluable insights into the complex workings of the human form.
Leonardo channelled his fast growing knowledge through the lens of his inventive spirit, leading him to conceive a myriad of revolutionary machines and devices. The second part of this extensive museum in Vinci focuses solely on these inventions, including models of his flying machines, armoured tanks and “quick build bridge”. Seeing the drawings recreated as models is truly magnificent. And although the informative labels were mostly in Italian, there were many opportunities to download translations alongside videos that showed the models in live-action.
My personal favourite was the self-propelled cart, considered the ancestor of the modern car. Seeing the complicated arrangement of interlocking cogs and symmetric springs was mesmerising. The cart features programmable steering and brake capabilities, and can self-propel either straight or at pre-set angles. I was in awe of the time and thought put into such an imaginative creation. According to InventHelp, Da Vinci’s cart was so ahead of its time that its exact workings baffled scholars until late in the 20th century. When a full working model was finally built in 2006, the cart not only worked perfectly, but some experts even noted that it looked similar to the Mars Land Rover.
A Sunset fit for a Genius
After a full day of exploring, we were gifted with a beautiful sunset setting the perfect backdrop for our drive home. From the clock tower we watched the sky shift through shades of pink so we headed for the hills as its final dusts of orange faded away. Tuscany, with its breathtaking landscapes and vibrant colours, surely played a part in shaping the genius of Leonardo during his formative years in Vinci. The play of light and shadow, the ever-changing hues of the sky at dusk, and the tranquil beauty of the countryside all influenced his artistic vision and heightened his appreciation for the natural world.
We needed just one day to be completely impressed. A day trip to Vinci is not just a journey through beauty but an immersive experience that celebrates the enduring legacy of Leo’s brilliance. From the idyllic Tuscan countryside, to the narrow cobblestone streets, to the halls of the Museo Leonardiano, Vinci offers a glimpse into the life and genius of one of history's most extraordinary individuals. As the sun sets over the rolling hills, one cannot help but feel inspired by the spirit of innovation and creativity that continues to define Leonardo's legacy to this day.
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