Kia ora, everyone! I’m Justine, the Nerdy-Half of the Breakaway Bravehearts and today, I’m back in Aotearoa New Zealand, exploring the stunning Whangarei District near the top of New Zealand's North Island. From picturesque landscapes to rich cultural heritage, this place has a huge variety of things to do and places to explore.
In this video I’m in search of a special spot. I’m looking for something that will fit the lens of Social Tourism: I want to find a spot that helps me learn more about the community I’m visiting, isn’t too hard on the environment, is great for the locals, and is a whole lot of fun. I think I’ve found something unique that almost meets the mark. I’ll talk you through my experience at Ruapekapeka Pa, and review the site using the BB Stars - our Social Tourism criteria. So, let's dive right in!"
Firstly Whangarei city itself - it is a lively city, small by global standards but big enough to provide a tourist with everything you might need. There are eclectic cafes, boutique shops, and plenty of galleries and museums like the Claphams Clock Museum and the Hunderwasser gallery. I have to say my favourite spot in Whangarei city is the waterfront, where you’ll find a fabulous sculpture walk.
Here nature and art come together in the coolest way possible! Wandering along you can take in the beautiful scenery, while appreciating the work and love gone into the sculptures. Along the way are many information panels outlining both Māori (indigineous) and European history of the area. My favourite piece was Wave and Waka by Ngātiwai sculptor Te Warihi Hetaraka and local Chris Booth. Enormous stone waves wrap around a 20-metre-long waka tētē (fishing canoe). It’s both a comment on colonisation, and an acknowledgement of the importance of Whangarei as both a landing place for Māori ancestral canoes and later as a point of arrival for Pākehā European colonists.
Click here if you’d like more info on the sculptures
But while Whangarei city has plenty to offer in itself, today we are venturing out across the district to explore the variety of tourism providers that offer a huge range of cultural experiences.
Like Waka and Wave, our first stop, 40 mins drive north of Whangarei, also reflects that tension in the relationship between the indigenous and the colonist, it is a site of huge historical significance to the country, but which receives surprisingly little attention.
The Ruapekapeka pā is the site of one of the largest and most complex fortifications of its kind. The fortress was designed by the Ngāpuhi iwi to challenge British rule and fight against breaches of the Treaty of Waitangi. Although the country’s founding document was supposed to protect Māori while welcoming British settlers, the Treaty almost immediately became a source of conflict as soon as it was signed, and within five years, the New Zealand Wars had begun.
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Ruapekapeka played a pivotal role in the conflict between Maori and British forces. As you can see, it is not a ticketed tourist attraction, but an open public space, cared for by local iwi and the Department of Conversation. The site offers some information in its signage, but has no interactive technology, exhibits or reconstructions to entertain you - simply the natural remains of what was once an intricate defensive structure, featuring trenches, tunnels and palisades.
The pā was named Ruapekapeka (bats' nests) because of the dark underground dugouts with narrow circular entrances at top, which gave access to shelters that could protect up to 20 warriors from cannon fire. There were passages between the front and back trenches so that warriors could move forward to fire and return to shelter to reload.
Walking through Ruapekapeka Pa, you can't help but feel a sense of reverence for the events that transpired here. The battle that took place here was the final one in years of conflict between Maori chiefs and British forces. Aside from its historical significance, Ruapekapeka Pa also offers stunning panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. Opposite the entrance to the Pa is a walk through the forest, where you’ll get a feel for the terrain where warriors snuck and soldiers trampled.
This serene landscape witnessed a clash of cultures that resulted in tragic loss of life. It's estimated that around 20 British soldiers lost their lives, while the casualties among Maori defenders were higher, with approximately 100 warriors dying here.
The significance of Ruapekapeka Pa is obvious, so here we’ll begin our Social Tourism Review, starting with a look at the social good this site provides.
Social Good
Ngā pakanga o Aotearoa, or "the great New Zealand wars" (also sometimes called Te riri Pākehā, or "the white man's anger") are not well known across the globe, yet of huge importance to NZ culture. The legacy stretches across time to today and underlies ongoing political and cultural tension within New Zealand society. So I was truly grateful to be able to walk around the site as it is, open to all and left to nature.
While the information on the wood signs is a little ragged, there is a QR code to help you gain more info to digest in your own time. The site considers both sides of the battle - you can walk or drive a little further past the bush to see where the British forces were camped on the opposite hill. Here the story of these soldiers is also recorded and acknowledged. Throughout time there used to be various locals offering guided tours, but since Covid these have become difficult to find. This is one place where you’ll need to be a little proactive if you want more than what is on offer on the signage. But there is plenty available if you’re willing to look online. For starters, I’ve popped a link in the description below to the website of the trustees of the area.
It is definitely a little known area and you are likely to have the place to yourself, so I hope that if you do get to visit you spread the word and give the site the attention it deserves. As far as I could tell there are no volunteer activities that would work for tourists.
Treasury
Ruapekapeka has suffered a chequered past, with ups and downs in its popularity and its management. Now it is cared for by NZ’s Department of Conservation, Te Ruapekapeka Trust, contractors, and volunteers. They recognise there is still a lot to be done and are working together to find new ways to protect and promote the site for future generations. This is paid for by crown funding, so we are grateful to NZ tax payers.
1(ethical use of money/local profit) = yellow, 2(employment for locals) = yellow, 3(workers rights) =yellow, 4(workers’ development) = yellow, 5(tax) = grey
Accessibility
The site is not really built for wheelchair users, and visitors will need a good level of fitness and comfortable shoes (my gumboots were not a good choice). I didn’t see any accommodations for hearing or sight impairments. Signs were offered in English and te reo Maori. Unisex toilets were offered on the British side of the grounds. Both sides seemed to have been treated with equal respect and attention.
1(wheelchair) = white, 2(hearing&sight) = white, 3(langs) = pale yellow, 4(lgbtq+) = yellow, 5(other perspectives/menu variance) = yellow
Relationships
Given the ‘sombre’ background of the site, which grey clouds helped enhance on the day we visited, I probably wouldn’t use the word ‘fun’ although I did thoroughly enjoy our time there. I loved being able to walk through at my own pace, engage with the space naturally and take in the surroundings in peace. I also really loved walking through the native bush, which brought back childhood memories of bushwalking with my family.
Considering there is no entrance fees, I was grateful for the signage that was provided. After visiting large tourist attractions across Europe, at first I did feel something was lacking - I wanted a video explanation, or a reconstruction on the site, but on reflection I have completely changed my mind about this. The site is sacred, and needs to be respected as such. Perhaps in the future there will be investment in some kind of supporting building with educational information or interactive activities, but for now I think it is perfect the way it is - there for all with no gimmicks or gift shops, just the land and its spirit.
1(fun) = yellow, 2(info) = yellow, 3(service) =yellow, 4(value for money) = yellow, 5(meets expectation) = yellow
Sustainability.
Ruapekapeka is not reachable via public transport. This is common in New Zealand as our landscape combined with our small population has meant investment in public transport is a cost that governments haven’t prioritised.
At the entrance the signs ask you to tread carefully so as not to damage the earthworks. Also, as the pa is a sacred site, food can not be taken in. There are no rubbish or trash cans, as it is hoped you wouldn’t need to bring anything that needs to be thrown away.
As it is run by the Department of Conservation, the site is subject to numerous legal acts in regards to conservation and animal protection. They have a Heritage and Visitor Strategy, with the goal to sustainably manage visitors to protect and enhance the value of New Zealand’s natural, cultural and historic heritage.
1(sustainability goals) = yellow, 2(transport there) = white, 3(choices) =yellow, 4(products) = grey, 5(industry impact) = yellow
And I have to say, they have done a wonderful job. I truly enjoyed my time on the Pā, and my walk through the forest - particularly looking through the branches and leaves searching for tui. So it was with great anticipation that we headed off to our next destination, a place that is all about one of our most special native trees, the Kauri.
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